Wednesday 28 September 2011

I told you I would get round to it eventually... Magnetic Island.

So, when last I wrote, we were just wrapping up the Whitsunday Islands and heading back to Airlie Beach. We spent a few more days here catching up with ourselves and certainly for me, acclimatising to being back on dry land (I seem to take rather longer than usual to adjust to the lack of movement; a most peculiar sensation). After a few days we headed on up to Magnetic Island (Cook apparently believed the island was interfering with his navigational instruments, an effect which has yet to be replicated), where we were to spend three days exploring what this small island off the coast of Townsville had to offer. While on the ferry journey over to the island, Ollie remarked that there was some sort of settlement that looked like 'some swish island resort'. After hopping on the bus and being told where to get off, we felt more than a little smug to find that said 'island resort' was in fact our hostel. While perhaps not as glamorous as it looked from a distance, it was still idyllic enough for us to thoroughly enjoy our time there. Kitted out with a swimming pool in which preliminary diving lessons were given, several hammocks and a whole host of different types of accommodation it was like something from some island getaway brochure. It looked a little like this:



  So we arrived and found ourselves, right on the water’s edge with a lovely quiet beach all the hostel's own and so began to settle in; spending the rest of the day dozing in hammocks, on the beach or just in our assigned hut chilling out.

We decided the next day to go snorkelling and so, kitted out with stinger suits, snorkels, masks and flippers headed out to where we had been informed there was a wreck that we could snorkel around in one of the nearby bays. Arriving there, not only did we indeed spot the wreck, but there were also some wallabies that were obviously used to being fed, so much so, in fact, that there was a pile of plant leaves and grasses in the middle of the little area they were all gathered around. Now, that had either been conveniently collected by them or, left there by the previous snorkelers and as such it seemed rude to break from convention, so Jon and Joe kitted out in stinger suits, flippers, snorkels, masks and ukulele set about feeding them. I’m not sure who was more confused; the wallabies or the tourist group that turned up half way through the feeding to admire the view and be told ‘there’s the wreck’. Either way, it made for some amazing photos:



The next day we headed up to the Northern end of the island and found ourselves winding up steeply (more on this later) over the ridge of hills that run the length of the island before dropping back down the other side towards the main beach of the island; Horseshoe Bay. Upon arriving, it was eminently clear why this was the main beach of the island, but that naturally meant it was a tad overcrowded, comparatively anyway. So, we backtracked up the road until we found ourselves at the col and took the turning off towards ‘Radical Bay’, a name that was just too appealing to pass up. After winding steeply down on a bumpy dirt track and then along the track under bush and jungle, we came out onto the completely isolated Bay. It was perfect, strewn with palm fronds, massive palm trees and a wide expanse of white sand, with rocks and rock pools at each end that could be explored at our leisure. To say that the rest of the day, certainly for my part, was spent doing little more than reading, sunbathing and doing diddly squat, would be no word of a lie. Bobby and a couple of the girls felt the need to climb the rocks and soon found themselves in that classic climbing paradox, the getting down is always harder than the getting up. Nonetheless, minus a couple of bruises and scrapes they were all fine. Ollie wandered off in the opposite direction and did much the same, requiring some solitude. While the rest of us were content to do nothing more than paddle in the water, explore the rock pools and eat the lunch we had brought with us.

By late afternoon, we decided to head back to our hostel, but, realising we had the jeeps until the morning, decided to go to West Point (not, I should add, the US Military Academy) for sunset. Having stopped back at the hostel, grabbed a jumper and changed out of our wet clothes, we piled back into the jeeps and headed out, with the dusk encroaching ever further, down yet another dirt track, this one entirely flat. After what seemed like a long and bumpy, but fun, drive, we found ourselves at West Point, with nothing for company but stone curlews, one retired Australian and Bobby’s guitar, we settled in for sunset. I have to say, this was a real highlight of the whole trip for me. It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Not a breathtaking beauty like the Grand Canyon, or an imposing, omnipresent beauty like New Zealand’s landscape, but a quiet, understated and supremely peaceful beauty that is a rare thing in this day and age. We could have been at the end of the world (we were, almost) if we weren’t facing west towards the mainland. Regardless the sunset was something special, even though we were told ‘you ought to come back in the summer, the sunsets are much better then!’ by the aforementioned retired Australian, after he emerged from his evening swim. Eventually, after the sun had gone down, we had grown cold and bored we decided to head back but with this etched in our memories:



On our last day, we decided to spend it in a rather less active fashion. I elected to spend most of the day in a hammock reading or on the beach doing much the same. While Jon did likewise, until his restless nature took over and he had to go off up to a view point to expend some energy. Bobby and Ollie, however, decided to hire bikes from the hostel, which, it should be stated in advance, were in a pretty bad way and cycle large parts of the islands road network. Not least, the road we had driven previously; the steep one. No prizes for guessing what happened. Ollie fell off, mangled his hands, knees, elbow and shoulder and had to be cleaned up by yours truly. Once he was patched up, we took stock of ourselves. Bobby and I had managed to injure ourselves playing bar Olympics (wheelbarrow = eyebrow death for Bobby and blind folded stool pushing = knee death for me. We both still have the scars to prove it), Ollie had mangled himself spectacularly, which just left Jon. Rather than any physical damage, Jon and I damaged our pride somewhat in order to win the dance competition (it had a prize of $250 worth of hostel vouchers!!), I won’t say how, but thankfully it paid off!

On a less dubious note, Magnetic Island is definitely one of the highlights of the trip for me and is undoubtedly somewhere I would urge everyone and anyone who visits the East Coast of Australia to visit. We left Magnetic Island with many fond memories of a visit long extended and with various other memories, some painful, most hilarious. It won’t be the last time, not for me anyway.

Sunday 4 September 2011

Something different.

I will come back to the rest of our travels, I promise. Right now, however, I'm feeling something a little more along the lines of my usual stuff. First, I have various issues musical to deal with:

The new Red Hot Chili Peppers album 'I'm With You', which, I must confess, I have been listening to pretty much ever since I got hold of it just over a week ago. While nothing ground-breaking or particularly astounding, if you are a fan of the Chilis and found yourself desperately hoping for better from the sprawling and rather misguided double album 'Stadium Arcadium', this is the album for you. It features the ever present wondrous bass noodlings and Flea and the improved vocal performance from Kiedis 'dirty laundry, what a quandry' is a lyric that sticks out. So, the single 'The Adventures of Rain Dance Maggie' has a fantastic bassline and a great, simple video shot, in what appears to be a rooftop gig the Chilis did on Venice Beach, much to my chagrin, just a week or two after I was there, in the evening sun with the admiring and rapidly gathering crowds forming over the length of the video. It is also great to see, as ever, the Chilis enjoying doing what they do; entertaining. Even new guitarist Josh Klinghoffer seems content and at ease. So, as state, it's nothing new but it's vintage Chilis enjoying themselves and coming up trumps in my books.

Second, the new Radiohead album, which has been out for some time, but I missed due to the adventures I've had over the last six months, but have subsequently listened to several times via their performance of the album on 'From the Basement' and it does indeed seem to be a wonderful return to their older slightly wackier ways. I haven't as yet had a chance to listen to the album repeatedly as all Radiohead albums require. One gets different things out of each different listen and as for the naysayers who dismiss Radiohead as depressing, pretentious nonsense, I can only express my condolences for what you're missing out on. I'll give you a more in depth assessment once I've listened to it five or six times, at least. Oh and on a side note, re-listening to OK Computer, for the umpteenth time, I'm continually struck by how outstanding it is and how, yet again, one derives different things from with each repeat listen.

On the down side, just briefly, the new Foo Fighters album, as far as I'm concerned is a major blot on a, so far, untarnished record. It just seems to lack the fun, soul and enjoyable air their previous albums have had in favour of a rather boring production and a lack of stand-out tracks. Perhaps that's just me though.

Books-wise, I have just finish a great collection of Paul Theroux's journalistic travel pieces called 'Sunrise With Seamonsters', which follows chronologically the pieces he published over a period of about 20 years. The topics range from the various epic railway journeys he undertook on the Subcontinent to the happy, if arduous hours, he spent rowing around the coast of Cape Cod in his lovely Victorian, hand-built skiff, to his memories of happy family reunions and just about everything in between. It's a lovely collection with something for everyone I feel and definitely a good introduction to this author for me. I have just begun reading Eric Newby's 'A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush', which evokes strong sentiments for me, imagining a place I have lived and yet, sadly, have no memories of, not to mention the extra-ordinary undertaking that is the main theme of the book, begun with the simple telegram 'CAN YOU TRAVEL NURISTAN JUNE?' which leads to a fantastical adventure in one of wildest corners of the earth. Having only just picked it up I can't report fully, but I'm confident it will be a rip-roaring read.

I have had some adventures over the last year; a trip to Paris, a trip to Broadstairs, many trips to London, one six month adventure around the world and all that it brought, but perhaps the most unexpected came to pass just over a week ago. I was at a dinner party with some family friends one evening and it would seem, in my absence it should be stated, I was volunteered for a sailing trip from Corfu's Gouvia port to Sicily's Catania over a week. With less than 24 hour's notice, I packed my bag and leapt onto the flight to Corfu to begin a short and rather more comfortable adventure, but nonetheless, at times challenging one.

I am no expert mariner, being only vaguely familiar with terms such as gybing, tacking, beating, loughing and all the other nautical jargon that is both a charming and highly confusing part of any such endeavour, but regardless found myself thoroughly enjoying the time spent on board and on shore at the various ports we stopped at. Not only did I enjoy the chance to do something totally different at such short notice, but I also thoroughly enjoyed seeing a part of the world I had not visited before and in a manner I have rarely experienced. A highlight was definitely seeing Mount Etna from the sea, looming over the South East coast of Sicily. One really appreciated the ease with which the Sicilians seem to live their lives, despite having this 3000m monster looming over them, ready to wipe them out, as it has done at various points in their long and illustrious history.

Anyway, as a result of this weeks exertions I am rather tired and so am going to head to bed very shortly.

As ever, I wish you happy travels, wherever and however you may go.

Joe